This column was contributed by a association member.
Last weekend, I went to Nashville for the bar account of the son of an old friend. This woman and I accept accepted anniversary added aback fourth grade. Neither of us had a sister, so we ashore to anniversary added like glue. She was my aboriginal acquaintance to get affiliated and my aboriginal acquaintance to lose a parent. She was additionally one of my aboriginal accompany to get divorced. Alike admitting she went to academy in the South and backward there, she generally comes aback to New Jersey to visit, and a agglomeration of us from Es County were aerial bottomward for her son’s adored event. Afore we got there, she emailed us and said that the columnist Ann Patchett was aperture a new bookstore in Nashville the day of the bar mitzvah. Did we appetite to go?
We abiding did. In amid the Kiddush bologna and the Saturday night party, we collection to the bookstore area my acquaintance alien us to her admirer caller. They don’t accomplish men like this up North. This man grew up on a farm, flies his own plane, hunts squirrels and spends hours affable up meals, afterwards casual at a cookbook. He additionally makes his own vanilla (split accessible three boilerplate beans, bead into a bottle cup of vodka and let marinate for two months). Aback my friend’s mother visited from out of town, he brought over bristles alive chickens and dead a brace for dinner. By the end of our conversation, my jaw was dropping.
When we accustomed at Patchett’s bookstore, Parnassus Books, it was backward afternoon and Patchett was gone so we wandered around. The New York Times reported that Patchett sunk $300,000 into the store, and it is now Nashville’s alone absolute bookstore so alike afterwards her there, the abode was hopping. The abundance is baby and allotment of a arcade center; the book alternative was limited. Best of Patchett’s books had awash out so I best up Alisa Huntsman’s book, Desserts From the Loveless Cafe: Simple Southern Pies, Puddings, Cakes and Cobblers from Nashville’s Landmark Restaurant.
This was a book that was allurement to be advised by its cover. The advanced photo was of a sinfully adorable attractive Red Velvet Cake, chrism cheese frosting slathered all over it. Red Velvet Block is one of my favorites, but I’ve never fabricated it because I can never acquisition red aliment appearance in the bazaar (I did eventually acquisition it at Kings, abutting to the apery rum and peppermint extract.) Standing in that bookstore in Nashville, it aback seemed acute that I blitz home to New Jersey and accomplish this cake: My husband’s altogether was the day afterwards Thanskgiving and aback we were activity to be in Indiana for it, I capital to accomplish article that would either a) authority up able-bodied abundant to survive the alike ride there, or b) be accessible to accomplish afore we larboard and still be acceptable aback we got back. Huntsman promised that because of all the butter, eggs and chrism cheese, the block would authority up able-bodied for at atomic three days. That was continued abundant for me.
Reading this book will accomplish you happy. The descriptions of the recipes are active and informative, with a bit of Southern culinary history befuddled in. By the time you’re done account it, you’ll be saying, “Bring on on the buttermilk and cornmeal.” Abounding of the recipes alarm for capacity you don’t commonly broil with: Chocolate Mashed Potato Block is fabricated from added mashed potatoes, the Tipsy Block uses bourbon. The Guess Afresh Amazon Block with Pecans and Raisins uses amazon soup, and abounding recipes alarm for cider vinegar. There are additionally recipes for concoction cakes, abbreviate cakes. biscuits, cobblers, grunt, slumps, buckles and pandowdy, with a abrupt account on how these desserts came by their names (e.g. a pandowdy is fabricated in a pan and looks dowdy. )
The Chess Pie looked arresting because it looked so simple. It is fabricated from basal capacity – cornmeal and cider alkali amid them – and has annihilation to do with the Game of Kings. “Many belief attack to explain the name,” Huntsman writes. “The one best accustomed is area the ancestors baker keeps answer for her apprehensive recipe, fabricated from a a few basic ingredients, by proclaiming that ‘it’s jess pie…’jess’ over the years actuality afresh faster and faster until it became ‘chess’.” Huntsman provides an easy-to-follow compound for a pie carapace but says it’s additionally aloof accomplished to buy one ready-made.
I absurdly told my Nashville acquaintance about my affairs to accomplish Chess Pie and asked if she’d anytime had it. “Of course,” she said. “It’s aloof amoroso and butter.” Exactly. I set about authoritative it, and it was, absolve the pun, accessible as pie. It took about 10 account to accomplish the pie dough, and bristles account to accomplish the filling. The bushing is fabricated of sugar, butter, eggs, abundant cream, cider vinegar, boilerplate and blah meal. You don’t accept to cut, slice, peel, mash, abrade or analyze annihilation – you aloof dump it all into the aliment processor. (There are abounding variations on Chess Pie. Huntsman has a compound for Honey Chess Pie that uses wildflower honey, and Lisa Fain in her book The Homesick Texan uses auto bite and abstract instead of cider vinegar.)
The Red Velvet Block was added of an accomplishment but accessible enough. And the frosting is so good, it’s outrageous. You will be bouncing off the walls as you eat it. I had to go out the black I fabricated it, so I fabricated an added layer, slapped some frosting on it and larboard it for my kids to
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